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ARKANSAS ( Ark-an-saw) belongs very much to the American South. It fought with the Confederacy in the Civil War and its capital, Little Rock, was, one of the most notorious flashpoints  for civil rights. Geographically, it marks the beginning of the Great Plains. Unlike the other Southern states, on the far side of the Mississippi River, It remained very sparsely populated until almost a hundred years ago. Westward expansion was blocked by Oklahoma, and not until the railroads opened up the forested interior during the 1880s did settlers stray in any numbers from their small riverside villages. Only once the Depression and mechanization had forced thousands of farmers to leave their fields did Arkansas begin to develop any significant industrial base. In 1992, local boy Bill Clinton's accession to the presidency catapulted Arkansas into national prominence.

Arkansas encompasses the Mississippi Delta in the east, oil-rich timber lands in the south, and the sweeping Ouachita ( Wash-i-taw ) Mountains in the west, the cragged and charismatic Ozark Mountains in the north are its most scenic asset, where the main attractions for tourists are the uncrowded parks and unspoiled rivers. Incidentally, "Arkansas" is a distorted version of the name of a small Indian tribe; the state legislature declared once and for all in 1881 that the correct pronunciation is Arkansaw .

Little Rock and the nearby spa resort of Hot Springs are a nice place to visit

The geographical, political and financial center of Arkansas, LITTLE ROCK is at the meeting point of its two major regions, the northwestern hills and the eastern Delta. The town today has a relaxed, open feel, a far cry from the dramatic events of 1957. In the rapidly expanding River Market District , 500 E Markham St, the Museum of Discovery , geared largely toward kids (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 1-4.30pm; $5.95, free first Fri each month 5pm-9pm; tel 501/396-7050), is a welcome and fun addition. This area contains the majority of Little Rock's activity, with a series of restaurants, bars and the actual farmers' market on the river. Behind the museum is Riverfront Park , a thin strip of greenery and fountains that runs for several blocks - here, a commemorative sign marks the "little rock" for which the city is named, which is not particularly striking.

In MacArthur Park the Arkansas Art Center features work by local and international artists (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, first Fri of every month 10am-8.30pm, Sun 11am-5pm; free). Also in the park is a Military Museum that has exhibits from the Civil War on forward.

The white Old State House Museum , 300 W Markham St, surrounded by smooth lawns and shaded by evergreens, backs onto the Arkansas River. Inside, displays cover all periods of Arkansas history, but the most impressive rooms are the two senate chambers, restored to their original grandeur (Mon-Sat 9am-5pm, Sun 1-5pm; free). This was where Clinton announced his bid for the presidency on October 3, 1991, and made his acceptance speech thirteen months later. There's now a special exhibit in the museum on his path to the presidency.